roast the toast: quince yogurt cake

i know we don't talk cake much around here. there's good reason on my end:
my name is tigress and i am a cake monster. don't get me around cake! (or cake around me, as it were)

i'll turn into houdini right before your very eyes. and then, poof, i'll turn you into tweety bird 'cause before you even know it you'll be like, "huh? i tawt i taw a pwetty cake!?"

ahem - or something like that.

but you know, since we've been preserving together over the past year and a half, and i feel somewhat responsible for all those jars taking up real estate on your larder shelves. i look at this as my duty.



i did it for you.



quince yogurt cake
adapted from D.I.Y. delicious by vanessa barrington

1 & 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 & 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar (i use raw)
scant 1/2 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
3/4 teaspoon rosewater
2/3 cup plain full fat yogurt
3 cups preserved quince in rose syrup, lightly drained and chopped *
1 cup walnut halves
10 inch round springform pan, buttered and floured lightly




1. preheat oven to 350 degrees. once hot, place walnut halves on baking sheet and bake for 5-7 minutes. just until you smell the most delicious aroma upon opening oven door. let cool on tray. keep oven heated for cake.

2. sift flour, cornmeal, salt, baking powder, and baking soda into a bowl.

3. in another bowl beat together softened butter, all of the raw (or white if you're using) sugar, and 1/4 cup of the brown sugar until well blended.

4. mix in the dry ingredients until almost blended, add the yogurt and stir to combine. add the chopped quince and fold.

5. pour into the springform pan (batter will be somewhat thick) and smooth the top.

6. break the walnut halves into pieces, this is done easily now that they are toasted. mix with the remainder of the brown sugar and sprinkle evenly over top of the cake.

7. bake for approximately 40 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

8. let cool completely on a rack before removing from the springform.


this is the kind of cake i dream about, the kind that makes me do magic tricks.

however, when you make it, it may actually last. which means if you don't eat it all within two days you can put in the fridge for up to a week, or frozen for a month, wrapped well.

* pawnote - i've used my quince preserves here - and it's divine! but this cake can deftly adapt to any kind of preserved fruit in sryup. got peaches? go for it, and switch out the 3/4 rose water for 1 teaspoon vanilla. pears? do it! and if you don't have fruit in jars, use up those berries or plums that have been hanging out in your freezer since last summer!




roast the toast: a now and then series devoted to pumping up the jams,
and other sweet preserves. 'cause a tigress can't live on bread alone. duh!

quince in rose syrup

lest you think i'm a cool cat. i thought i'd share this with you, an email i sent to julia of what julia ate (the quince queen IMO) upon my initial discovery of local quince:

tigress to Julia

show details Oct 20

i just scored 5 lbs of local quince!!!

what do i do!!!???

what should i do?

i don't think i've ever actually seen/held one before.

omg. the scent!

-tigress


...well of course i went for the membrillo first. (although, i gotta admit, it's back to the drawing board on that one) and then i did this - a winner. then i got my paws on another 5 pounds of local quince!

this time i wanted to preserve the wonderfully exotic nature of quince to enjoy throughout the year without a whole heck-of-a-lot of embellishment. i looked to quince's native home for inspiration; persia, turkey and their surrounds. in fact, i had a wonderful little bottle of gür that i brought home from last summer's trip to turkey that was just hanging out, waiting to meet it's match.

quince in rose syrup

4 pounds quince
juice of 2 lemons
2 & 1/2 cups sugar
approximately 20 black peppercorns
1/4 cup rose water
pint mason jars

yield: 4 pints

1. prepare the canner and jars for hot water bath processing. no need to sterilize as you will be processing for over 10 minutes. just make sure they are hot when you fill them.

2. prepare a large bowl with cold water. place 4 cups water in a large saucepan and add the quince whole. bring to the boil and boil for 2 minutes. take quince out with slotted spoon and drop in cold water. reserve the 4 cups water in the saucepan.

3. remove quince from the bowl, and refill with fresh cold water, add juice of two lemons. one by one peel, core and cut quinces into eighths. drop directly into lemon-water to avoid discoloration.

4. add sugar to the reserved 4 cups of water in pan and heat on low until sugar is dissolved. add quince slices and bring to the boil. simmer gently for 12 minutes, partially covered. turn off heat.

5. remove all 4 pint jars from canning pot. add 5 whole black peppercorns to each. remove quince from syrup with a slotted spoon and fill each jar with quince to 1/2 inch headspace. tap the jars on a towel covered counter to create more space and release air.

6. add 1/4 cup rose water and return syrup to the boil. once boiled turn off heat and pour over fruit into jars. leaving 1/2 inch headspace. use a plastic chopstick or plastic knife to gently remove air bubbles.

7. hot water bath process for 20 minutes.



tigress can jam november: pomes - success!
though i know that rose water is heavily used in persian and turkish sweets, there was a moment when i thought it may be too sweetly perfumed for the quince's heady scent. alas, the rose and the quince do not compete, rather they marry together to form an harmonious bouquet of exotica. on ice cream this is a no-brainer, but i have something else in mind: a rose n' quince tarte tatin or custard tart will most definitely find its way out of a couple of these jars sometime in the cold winter months.

learning: not so much a learning as a, yes! with this recipe i came away with about 3/4 of a pint of syrup left. the scent is incredible alone, and i cannot wait to use this rose n' quince syrup in a holiday cocktail. it has got me thinking back to that summer ripple-craze through the can jam, that had many of us bottling up fruit syrups for luscious warm weather cocktails. i may have to start a new fall tradition...

quince & cranberry holiday preserves

remember that red stuff in a can that used to add just the right sour-sweetness to the turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes?

of course you do.

this could most certainly be enjoyed with all of the above mentioned pairings. and though it has the traditional tart-sweet flavor, the quince and candied ginger add a toothsome chutney-esque zing. plus i can't stop eating it on top of chevre each morning ever since it's inception. and i can only imagine it slathered across one of those warmed holiday brie wheels, or nestled comfortably inside the indent of a nut-and-buttery thumbprint cookie.

to top all of this off, it's about the simplest preserve i've ever made. so if you've been thinking about learning how to jam, then i say this one is for you.

now just imagine arriving, on thanksgiving day, or another some-such winter holiday feast, with a jar or two of this delight up your sleeve.

if word gets out you might just find yourself invited to a tad more of those little shindigs come next holiday season, and you certainly want that don't you?

of course you do.

;)

quince & cranberry holiday preserves

2 & 1/2 pounds fresh cranberries
1 & 3/4 pounds quince, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch cubes
6 ounces candied ginger, sliced very thin
5 cups sugar
5 cups water
pint and half pint mason jars

yield: approximately 6 pints

1. place 2 or 3 small plates in freezer to test set later on, prepare jars for hot water bath processing. no need to sterilize as processing time is 10 minutes.

2. place sugar and water in a non-reactive (stainless steel, or enameled cast iron) pan and heat on low until sugar is dissolved, turn up heat and bring to the boil.

3. once boiled, add quince and bring to the boil again. lower heat and simmer for a good hour until quince turn red and syrup begins to thicken.

4. add candied ginger slices and whole cranberries, bring to the boil, continue boiling on medium-high until the cranberries pop and soften. cook until set, approximately 20 minutes. test set by placing a teaspoon full on a frozen plate. put plate back in freezer for 30 seconds, run finger through, if it wrinkles even slightly under your finger it is set. make sure to turn the stove off as you are testing as you don't want to over set it as you are testing. if on the first try you find the it is not set, turn up the heat and try again in another minute or two.

5. fill jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace and hot water bath process for 10 minutes.

you can easily cut this recipe in half, forgo the canning part, and slide it right into the fridge for use during the holiday season if you don't feel like getting your hands wet just yet!

ancho apple butter

i couldn't help myself. it's fall and the apples are fallin' everywhere around here.



this tree was here long before i even knew what a berkshire hill was. since i've been here it's had good years and bad. some years nary an apple she grows, and others like this one, they swing like baubles sassy in the breeze, wooing me from the window at which i work each day.

on good years i eat them all summer; the first tiny pucker worthy emeralds, the blushing end of summer cherubs. and finally in october when there is nothing left but those jovial fatties sunning themselves way up high, i wait.

eventually, flushed and sugar drunk, they fall to the ground. at last unable to bear their own weight. when they finally drop and roll they let out a boisterous sound of glee. most times a solitary cry, and sometimes a few small apple voices in unison shouting; weeeeeeeee! inaudible, but i know they do it.

gathering them up before the deer, rabbits, chipmunk, squirrels, wild turkeys, a myriad of more graceful and colorful feathered friends, neighbor's dogs, fox, and this summer, a bobcat even (!) get to them is the challenge. let alone the smaller critters, fiercer than tasmanian devils when it comes to eating apples it would seem. basically...

i gotta be quick.

my eagle ears and mad dashes from behind the work window paid off this october because i was able to gather enough butter inducing fruit to make this:

ancho apple butter

5 pounds apples - stemmed & quartered, skin & seeds intact
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1 & 2/3 to 2 cups raw cane sugar
9 allspice berries
1 to 2 teaspoons ground ancho chiles
1/2 pint or pint mason jars
food mill

yield: approximately 4 & 1/2 pints

1. place apple quarters and 2 cups cold water in a non-reactive (stainless or enameled iron) stock pot and bring to the boil. reduce to a simmer and cook until apples are soft - about 20 minutes.

2. as apples are cooking prepare canning pot and jars for hot water bath processing. jars should be warmed but no need to sterilize.

3. when apples are soft all the way through take off the heat and pass them through a food mill. discard the skins & seeds and return the apple flesh to pot. add sugar, ground ancho, wine vinegar, and whole allspice. place the allspice in a cloth tea bag, metal tea ball, or cheesecloth so that it is easy to fish out later.



4. cook on medium, stirring regularly until butter thick - about 30 minutes. as it thickens you will have to stir more often to prevent sticking. you'll know it's done when you can place a dollop on a plate and the sides don't leak.

5. fill jars to 1/4 inch head space, tap the jars gently on the towel covered counter to get rid of air bubbles. run a plastic knife or chopstick around the inside rim if air bubbles are persistent.

6. hot water bath process for 10 minutes.



tigress' can jam october: chile pepper success!
i couldn't help myself. i had to do two this month. i mean, i'm a chile cat after all. i love apple butter and i love dried chiles so i thought, why not? as in this pear butter i kept the sugar low. i like a butter that is barely on the sweeter side of sauce - as in an applesauce. you could take it up to 2 whole cups and it still wouldn't be overly sweet. i added the vinegar because these fallen apples are way past their earlier puckery punch. it was a good choice. the ancho and allspice together add a nice depth. in an odd spoonful here and there i can taste the clean, almost herbal ancho note. i think to catch it in every spoonful, i would up the ancho to 2 whole teaspoons next time.

learning: note to self - next october make 15 pounds of apples' worth because these 4 & 1/2 pints are going to fly off the larder shelves! quickly!

plum noir (jam)

it was a dark and windy night, soon after the horizon overtakes the sun and the sky becomes gloomy with defeat. a lone fox sat underneath the apple tree. teeth shining from behind curled canine lips, head bobbing, bits of apple flesh released, falling to the ground.

a glass of wine in hand, a basket of plums on the counter. a can jam deadline looming. she lifted the glass to her lips, the movement of his jaw was hypnotizing and her eyes grew heavy.

the sky deepened until the only thing left was the glint of moving teeth. in seconds that too faded. her cue. she swirled the last sip of wine and stood up, chair scraping, to the sound of wood on wood.

plum noir jam

4 pounds dark plums
3 bay leaves
10 black peppercorns
4 green cardamon pods
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 cup water
juice of one lemon
5 cups sugar
pint, 1/2 pint, or smaller mason jars

yield: approximately 4 pints

1. prepare jars and lids for hot water bath canning. let the unfilled jars boil for 10 minutes to sterilize. put 2 or 3 small plates in the freezer for testing set later.

2. pit and chop plums, place them in a non-reactive pot with 1/2 cup of water and lemon juice. heat on low, covered, until the skins soften all the way through - about 15 minutes. heating plums before the sugar is added will ensure soft skins and will aid against fruit floating in the finished jars.

3. as the plums are softening in the pot prepare the spices. break open the cardamom pods and take out the black seeds, discard the green shells. powder the cardamom seeds, peppercorns and fennel seeds in mortar & pestle. i cannot stress enough how important it is to buy whole spices and powder only when needed, they last so much longer and taste so much stronger.



4. when the plums have softened keep the heat on low and add the ground spices, bay leaves (please make sure they are not old and you can actually smell the sweet spice of bay - otherwise you might as well add a couple of post-it sheets) and the sugar. keep the heat on low until the sugar dissolves and then turn up the heat and bring to the boil.



5. boil until sufficient set is reached - about 15 minutes. to test the set add one teaspoon to a frozen plate and place plate in freezer for 30 seconds. slide your finger through the jam and if it wrinkles underneath even slightly the jam is set.

6. fill hot jars and hot water bath process for 5 minutes.



tigress' can jam september: stone fruit - success!
i love a good plum jam, even straight up it's always full of flavor. it's the perfect beginning jammer's fruit - you can hardly go wrong with the set. the warming spice adds a definite serious note. and even though i'll never say no to jam for breakfast, i imagine this as the perfect accompaniment to a soft cheese plate just after dinner.

learning: making jam is the perfect thing to do on a dark and windy night.

nectarine preserves with summer savory & white pepper

i've got a confession to make.

i'm a butt girl.

that's right. the juicier the better.

...peachy little butts that is.

i'm not picky about picking these lusciously sweet, seductively shaped



naughty little freestones or clingstones. they're all just peachy to me.



i put these beauties in a jar quick - before they got away.

the taste is unadulterated nectarine, lusty and sweet, with just a touch of heat & savory.

yowsa!

nectarine preserves
with summer savory & white pepper

3 & 3/4 pounds nectarines
4 & 3/4 cups sugar (i use raw)
2 large lemons
6 sprigs summer savory
20 white peppercorns, freshly ground (use i mortar & pestle if you have)
candy thermometer
1/2 pint or smaller mason jars

yields 2 & 1/2 pints


day 1
1. prepare an icy water bowl or very clean sink with the juice of 1 lemon. blanch whole nectarines in boiling water for one minute, just until the skins start to split. dunk quickly in the icy water bath.

2. peel, bit and slice peaches. place in a non-reactive preserving pan with sugar & juice of one lemon. heat on low until sugar is melted. turn up heat to medium-high and bring just to a simmer.

3. place mixture in a large bowl, bury savory sprigs within. let cool, then place in fridge or another cool place overnight.

day 2
1. prepare your canning pot, lids, & jars. boil jars for 10 minutes to sterilize. full details here.
put 2 small plates in the freezer for testing the set.

2. separate fruit from syrup by either draining in a colander or using a slotted spoon (or both). place syrup in preserving pan and bring to 221 degrees. skim foam off top if needed. add nectarine slices, remove the sprigs of savory as you are doing so. add the ground white pepper to the pan, bring to the boil again on high heat. boil for 5 minutes.

3. test the set by first turning the heat off. place a teaspoon of the preserve on a frozen plate. place plate back in freezer for 30 seconds or so. run your finger across the plate and through the mixture. if it wrinkles, even slightly, it is sufficiently set. if your finger makes a clean break, place the pan back on high heat and boil for another minute. try again.

4. hot water bath process for 5 minutes.

and trust me i know it's hard, but please, once you get a taste...



control yourself.





if you're like me, and you cannot get enough of these perfect fruits, check out the following blogs. 'cause there's a whole lotta good recipes & tips about stone fruits in celebration of summerfest 2010! while you're at it, don't forget to let us all know in the comment sections how these cuties like to be had in your neck o' the woods.





a way to garden
devour the blog
eating from the ground up
food 2
fn dish
gilded fork
gluten-free girl & the chef
healthy eats
just a taste
san diego foodstuff
simmer till done
sweetnicks
tea and cookies
the sister project
the wright recipes
tuscan diva
white on rice couple

next wednesday is the last week of summerfest 2010 - we're celebrating tomatoes! and guess, what? the can jammers are jammin' on tomatoes this month too. which means, next week over here, tomatoes will be hella all over the place!!